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Rainbowfish.info is a forum for rainbowfishes enthusiasts. Melanotaenia, Glossolepsis, Pseudomugil, Bedotia, and all other rainbowfishes are discussed as well as other freshwater fish from Australia, New Guinea and surrounding islands.

Hello from Tennessee

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Re: Hello from Tennessee

Postby newfish » Fri Jan 29, 2010 9:16 am

The medication that we used was Furan-2 over a period of 4-5 days.As far as the the Roseline,The white place on his side was right behind his fin and it looked as if his body was turning white in that area and slightly raised and then after we lost him it turned red under the skin .My husband and i are trying everything to help are other fish,But when you dont know what it is it is hard to fix.The water is testing fine as far as Nitrites,nitrates,and Ammonia We use Prime with water changes and Florish excel for the plants.Also there is TLc in the water to keep the bacteria good.We also added a little salt.Well if anyone has some more advice please let us know.Thankyou all so much for your help.
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Re: Hello from Tennessee

Postby Colin_T » Fri Jan 29, 2010 7:16 pm

I'm not sure what is in Furan-2 but if it is used to treat bacterial infections and didn't make any diiference, then perhaps try something to treat external skin parasites. Medications containing copper sulphate, malachite green and formalin should kill most things.
Alternatively take one of the sick fish to a fish vet and have them take a scraping from the skin/mucous coating. They can examine the scraping under a microscope and tell you what is causing the problem.
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Re: Hello from Tennessee

Postby newfish » Tue Feb 02, 2010 5:32 am

We dont have any vets around here that can do that.We have some quick cure.The Furan-2 has Nitrofurazone and Furazolidone in it.It is for, Hemorrhagic Septicemia,Body slime and eyecloud,open red fin sores,fin and tail rot,and Bacterial gill disease.So we have treated a pretty broad range of differnt things.So far everyone has been doing well for 4 days now. :yahoo: When do you think it would be safe to add more fish to the tank?Thankyou so much for all your help and time.
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Re: Hello from Tennessee

Postby Colin_T » Tue Feb 02, 2010 5:13 pm

don't add any new fish until everyone has been ok for at least a month. If any fish get sick during that time, the month starts again from the time the fish is cured.
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Re: Hello from Tennessee

Postby newrainbow » Mon Feb 08, 2010 4:03 pm

We have not lost any fish in nearly 2 weeks now . But it seems lke we are getting very fine air bubbles at the top of the tank then patches of them around the edge of the tank. The tank has 2 filters and 2 air stones. Does this sound normal or is it a problem?
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Re: Hello from Tennessee

Postby Colin_T » Mon Feb 08, 2010 4:57 pm

fine air bubbles on the watersurface can be common in tanks that have been treated with medication, and in tanks that get a lot of frozen food. It can also be caused by some aquarium plant fertilisers.
I wouldn't worry too much about the bubbles unless the water starts to smell. Then do some water changes if that happens.
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Re: Hello from Tennessee

Postby Tomtom » Mon Feb 08, 2010 8:02 pm

Yes, frozen food can do that, or whatever else, but it's not dangerous.
You can do water changes, or take a fine net to clean the surface.
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Re: Hello from Tennessee

Postby newfish » Tue Feb 16, 2010 5:45 am

Hey ,I got a little problem.I think that 4 of my Madagadascars have Ick.What can i use to treat them that would be safe.I have some Quick Cure,But i didnt know how safe it would be for everyone.All of the other rainbows look fine though.
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Re: Hello from Tennessee

Postby Colin_T » Tue Feb 16, 2010 7:15 pm

Quick Cure should be fine for rainbows as long as you don't overdose.

To work out the volume of water in the tank
measure the length x width x height in cm
divide by 1000
equals volume in litres

When measuring the height, measure from the top of the gravel to the top of the water level. If you have big rocks or driftwood in the tank remove them before measuring the height.

Remove carbon (if there is any) from the filer before treating the tank and throw it away.

Do a water change and complete gravel clean before treating the tank.

Make sure you treat for at least a week, preferably 10 days to 2 weeks at 24C.
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Re: Hello from Tennessee

Postby Adrian » Tue Feb 16, 2010 10:18 pm

newfish wrote:Hey ,I got a little problem.I think that 4 of my Madagadascars have Ick.What can i use to treat them that would be safe.I have some Quick Cure,But i didnt know how safe it would be for everyone.All of the other rainbows look fine though.



Quick-Cure®
Manufactured by Aquarium Products USA

Is the active ingredients on the label a tri-chelated formula of: Formaldehyde - 1031.0 g/litre and Malachite Green - 19.2 g/litre with a recommended dose rate of 1 ml per 76 litres of aquarium water???

Aquarium products make some good quality medications, but I found their dose rate to be ineffective?

I used to use 1 ml per 40 litres of aquarium water. Do a 50% waterchange and then apply the chemical. Usually only one treatment is required. However, if you find that the fish are still affected, miss one day then do another 50% water change and treat again. No more than three treatments should be used.

I have found that Rainbowfish, Blue-eyes and Gudgeons will tolerate this concentration. Care should be taken with scaleless fish and other sensitive exotic species as malachite green at the above dose levels may be toxic to them?

However, just a friendly warning - you accept full responsibility if you use my dose rate!

Just check the label to make sure the active ingredients haven't been changed!

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Re: Hello from Tennessee

Postby newfish » Wed Feb 17, 2010 4:03 am

I got my water up to 80.4 degree as of now.I noticed that now there is some spots on the black tetras and i was wondering if this treatment will be safe for the Roselines and the tetras.If we tried salt would that work just as well with increasing the water tem and how high would we set it.Also i was told that the Roselines need there water temps lower .So you guys tell us what to do now.I just got my husband some new fish and i think that they brought this in to the others.Also we have heard that when it is cold outside that Ick can be brought in with the water when we do changes...Is that true.The new fish that i brought in was a Marci,Roseline,Australian and 3 octinulus...so what do we do now.Thankyou so much.
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Re: Hello from Tennessee

Postby Adrian » Wed Feb 17, 2010 7:20 am

newfish wrote:I got my water up to 80.4 degree as of now.I noticed that now there is some spots on the black tetras and i was wondering if this treatment will be safe for the Roselines and the tetras.If we tried salt would that work just as well with increasing the water tem and how high would we set it.Also i was told that the Roselines need there water temps lower .So you guys tell us what to do now.I just got my husband some new fish and i think that they brought this in to the others.Also we have heard that when it is cold outside that Ick can be brought in with the water when we do changes...Is that true.The new fish that i brought in was a Marci,Roseline,Australian and 3 octinulus...so what do we do now.Thankyou so much.



A continuous well-aerated salt bath of 2~5g/L until disease controlled (may be for up to 20 days) has been reported as effective in controlling ichthyophthiriasis.

One study found that fish maintained at 4g/L salt for 23 days showed a gradual reduction of white spots and survival was 100%.

However, there appears to be significant differences among species and possibly families in their tolerance to salt.

I would just use the Quick-Cure dose rate as per directions on the label! I think it says it may have some bad effect against Tetras?

And no, you can't bring Ick in with water when you do water changes until you are collecting water from a creek or some other outdoor site.

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Re: Hello from Tennessee

Postby Colin_T » Wed Feb 17, 2010 5:43 pm

You shouldn't actually raise the temperature until you have medication in the tank. Otherwise the parasite grows faster and reproduces more, and this means more parasites to infect the fish. Once the medication is in the water, then warm it up.

And as Adrian suggests, just use the Quick cure to treat it.

The whitespot would have been brought in with the new fish. It is preferable to quarantine new fish for about a month before you add them to an established tank. However, most people don't have the facilities to quarantine fish so they just add them to the tank and hope they don't bring anything with them.

The Whitespot parasite can only live for a few days without a host. It does not live in normal tap water and only occurs in tanks with fish in. Once the problem has been treated properly, then the only way it can occur again is if it is introduced again with contaminated water or plants, or on diseased fish you get.

The parasite can only be killed in its free swimming stage. It is not affected by medication when it is on the fish (noted by the little white dots on the fish). After it has been on the fish for a day or two, it drops off and sits in the substrate multiplying in a shell/ cyst. A few days after that the cysts rupture open and release thousands of little parasites that will then seek out a host fish to attach themselves to. The medication only works at this stage, when they are free swimming and looking for a new host.
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Re: Hello from Tennessee

Postby Adrian » Wed Feb 17, 2010 10:22 pm

I'm just curious - can someone in the US tell me if this is the current label for Quick Cure?

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Re: Hello from Tennessee

Postby newrainbow » Wed Feb 24, 2010 7:10 pm

A little different in look of the label but info all seem to be the same. We seem to have got rid of the ick. Have not seen any spots in about 3 days. Figure we will give it a few more than do a major water change and put the plants back in. Also What is the best light to use on a planted tank? We are running power compact with 10,000k. I Was thinking about 6,700k but will this increase the algae growth, seems like we already have alot of it.
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